Eternal Card Game Best Decks

Eternal Card Game Best Decks Average ratng: 7,5/10 810 reviews

Eternal Top Decks - Endra Combo Deck Tech. As usual I will go over all the card choices and numbers.

One of the biggest things I hear about CCGs (online or otherwise) is that Card Games are “Pay to Win”. Many people think that simply by having great cards that they’re always going to win. Dire Wolf Digital has produced a card game in Eternal that will certainly feel familiar to fans of Hearthstone and Magic: the Gathering, but stands up on its own with new card traits, a fun fantasy setting, and a system that I’ve found to be generous in terms of acquiring new cards. I met some of the Dire Wolf Digital developers of Eternal a few years back, when Eternal was still in development, and really enjoyed what I played/experienced. The only reason I did not dive in is because I tend to dive in too deep to CCGs, and have to be careful.It’s not the best card game I’ve ever played, but it really made an impression on me with how easily I received cards/packs, and the freedom to build whatever deck I desire. The goal is the same as most other CCGs – beat the opponent down to 0 life, with a deck of 75 cards.

Players play Sigils that add an overall Mana Pool, and give “Reputation”. That’s one of the only requirements to play cards – certain cards will have sigils on them, denoting how much Reputation of a faction/color is needed to play the spell.Something that is both a pro and a con, depending on how much card game experience you have, is the Tutorial. It’s in-depth and very long. I’ve heard people have been turned off by that because they “know how to play a card game”. But I did see Keywords (card abilities) in this game that I had not seen before, so it was good to have a practice ground to try these out with.

The tutorial takes you through stages as one of the main characters of the franchise, and while it was annoying at first to be hand-held through every important step and feature, I wound up appreciating it. Though I have played CCGs since the mid-90s, and though this game does feel familiar, it’s not the same as Hearthstone, not the same as Magic. So this ultimately helped me feel at home with the flow of a standard match, the types of cards I’m bound to come against, and the RNG of this game. Eternal’s RNG is one of the only major drawbacks to the game – with a 75 card deck, it can feel impossible to get the cards you feel like you need in any given situation. If you aren’t consistently getting your Sigils or creatures that can give you Sigils, matches will stop going your way pretty damn fast.Eternal’s system consists of Five Colors/Factions, Multi-Faction Cards, and Neutral Cards that can be used by any Faction.

Each has its own style and many will feel familiar in style from other card games. Each Faction has their own Units (Creatures), Attachments (Equipment), Sites, Spells, and Power Cards. Then, of course, there’s rarity – Common (Grey), Uncommon (Green), Rare (Blue), Promo (Purple), and Legendary (Orange). The rarity of a card is easy to see, with a colored border around the artwork.

Right now there are also nine sets of cards in the game, coming to 1051 cards, according to.It can be very daunting to enter a card game with so many potential cards and deck ideas, especially one that uses a Shard/Dust system (known as Shiftstone). Dust Systems are my absolute least favorite style of CCG; I’ve really grown used to MTG Arena’s Wildcards, which let me craft any card in a rarity that I need.

While this can certainly feel overwhelming, there are quite a few ways to get cards and card packs. The biggest thing for me, though, is that the card packs give 12 cards in them, instead of the smaller 5-8 other games are offering.

There are also plenty of cosmetics to spend money on, and bundles for new updates. Speaking of updates, what could be the best feature for Eternal is this: When cards are changed/updated/nerfed, the game will let you know that you can break down those cards for their full value for a limited time. If they’re no longer useful to you, you can get rid of them and use that Shiftstone on something else.So before we get into the flow of the game, where else can you get cards?

You have single-player options to unlock more cards, which I think is a definite boon. There are several Single-Player Campaigns that unlock more cards. Some of these Campaigns are free, whereas the Premium Campaigns cost either Gems or Gold. Each win in those Campaigns will unlock a playset of cards, and these cards are unique to their campaign. Thankfully, you can see exactly what card sets you’ll receive in these campaigns.

You can also spend additional gems to turn these into Premium Cards. It doesn’t make them better, but it sure makes them look cool. Many of these campaign battles have extra conditions to them, such as both players receiving a Time Sigil with every passing turn, extra damage, and other challenges.

These will require you to consider carefully how each battle is approached and can certainly make you a better player if you keep these moments in mind. Next is the Gauntlet, which is free. You take a deck you’ve created, and battle a series of increasingly more challenging AI opponents. Each victory will give you a chest, which will have gold, cards, perhaps even card packs in them. There are seven battles, and you go until you lose twice or win them all, whichever comes first.

The final single-player option is the Forge. This is a Draft Mode (2500 gold or 250 gems), where you build a deck from new cards and do battle with AI opponents.

For those who prefer to Draft versus other players, the Versus Column has “Draft” where you build a deck out of four packs, and compete against other players. Then there are Events, Casual, and Ranked. In order to access Events, you need to play five Versus Matches.Deckbuilding is fairly intuitive and easy to get into. You can build a deck with one color, or five colors, that’s entirely up to you. But it’s important to be aware of what the Reputation cost for the cards you’re using is. I recommend doing some research on popular styles of play and what each Faction’s style is.

None of the factions have a unique trait that no other faction can use, but the creatures and spells certainly have a style their own. There are Sigils that give more than one Reputation (up to 3 types at once), and that can be used to see what factions have synergy with each other. At the end of the day, you can do just about anything you want in Eternal. So here’s a brief rundown of each faction:. Fire (Red): Low-cost equipment, Gunslingers, Oni, Fire Damage and plenty of direct damage.

Suited to aggro playstyles. Warcry, Charge, Quickdraw are pretty common Keywords. Time (Yellow): Time excels at making costs of cards go up/down, and is great at controlling the pace of a game.

Tons of defensive options, giant creatures like Sentinels and Dinosaurs. Endurance, Pledge, Echo are pretty common Keywords. Justice (Green): Soldiers, Oni, Valkyries, this is a faction with lots of boosts/buffs/equipment. This will definitely remind players of Mono-White Equipment in MTG. Flying, Warcry, Empower are common Keywords.

Primal (Blue): Fairies, Trolls, Yeti, and Dragons abound in Primal. This is another pretty control-heavy color, mostly using Stuns/Silence.

Primal has fun curses and other ways to slow down opponents. Flying, Echo, and Renown are common Keywords. Shadow (Purple): This is the sneaky evil death faction.

Lots of ways to instant kills, get unblockable damage through, and returning creatures from the Void (Graveyard). There are so many Flying creatures here. Pledge, Flying, Aegis, and Summon are common Keywords.Now that you’ve built a deck and have tested it a few times against the AI, the actual flow of gameplay is pretty simple. Both players draw 7 cards, and have the option to mulligan down to 6, if the hand they pulled isn’t suitable.

There’s the Main Phase, where you play a Sigil (if you have one), and cast Spells/Units/et cetera. During the first turn, cards in your hand with “Pledge” can be cast as Sigils instead. Units that are summoned can’t attack the first turn they’re played unless they have Charge. Then players have the option to attack the other player, and defensive creatures are picked.

From here, Fast Spells can also be cast if any affect combat. Flying creatures can’t be blocked by non-fliers.

Then the second Main Phase, where spells and units can be cast. Ultimately, Eternal plays out like a standard CCG, but with a considerably vast library, tons of keywords to learn, and plenty of solo play if you aren’t up to PVP. That’s one of the major draws for me. Sometimes I want to play a card game, but I’m tilted from a few losses, so instead, I’ll play against the bots, and practice.Heart of the Cards: Great (4/5)I’ve had a very positive experience getting into Eternal. It’s available on Xbox One in addition to PC, and it plays great on both. It has so many options for ways to play, build, and approach the game. I’m not crazy about 75 card decks personally, because as I said earlier, one of the big problems for this game is finding the right balance of Sigils to Cards, and actually.getting.

the cards you need. So while you can build five-color decks, I have had the most success with two to three colors. I also want to point out that their pre-con decks you unlock are actually really solid decks. I’ve been playing a lot with “Feln Cunning” Pre-Con, which actually features several Legendary cards. Now, they’re no match for decks with tons of high-level/high-power cards in them that also synergize with each other, but I’ve won more than I have lost with the pre-con decks.That’s definitely a point in their favor.

Those decks have helped me figure out how I want to approach my own personal deckbuilding. While I do wish there weren’t “Premium Campaigns” that cost real money, because they really do give pretty solid cards without having to use Shiftstone/Card packs, it is still helpful. Since this is a free-to-play game, it’s a good way to support the game and get useful playsets. You can also gain card packs and gold simply by playing certain factions. As you play, you’ll level up the factions you use, which is ultimately beneficial.

Can you get amazing cards by spending real money? Of course, you can. But will it give you the knowledge to know what to do and when? No, that’s only by spending time in the game. Eternal is an amazing card game, and I look forward to seeing what else Dire Wolf Digital has up their sleeves. Not to mention that it’s 100% crossplatform, so you can take your collection anywhere you go.Real Money was spent on Eternal, but it came out of the reviewer’s pocket.

Eternal is available on Steam, Xbox One and iOS.

Hey everyone! Thanks for taking a look at my new player's guide for Eternal. I love card games like this, and Eternal is probably one of the best and most truly free-to-play card games on Steam.

I've played TCGs since I was a kid, so I have quite a bit of experience with this whole thing. It can be daunting to get into a new game, or this genre in general, so I wanted to write this guide to help people getting into the game. My hope is that this is an all-in-one stop for new players to help them enjoy the game.This guide isn't going to cover the rawest of the raw basics (after all, there's a tutorial campaign for that), but it will cover a few of the intricate details that are easily missed when you're first jumping in, and help you to hold your own against other players.

We're also going to talk quite a bit about how you can both maximize your gold/shiftstone so you can play the game without spending money (although I'd still recommend spending a bit if you enjoy it to support the devs), and in the end, I'm going to give some tips for building decks and what to expect from PvP.But before we move on, I'm going to ask one favor: if you're brand new to the game, and this guide helped you out, I'd ask that you consider using my referral link, which I'll put at the end of this guide. It'll give you a few extra packs of cards, and it helps me out, too!That said, let's move right along to how to maximize your gold/shiftstone in this free-to-play game, since I know that's what most of you are here for! (The rest of the guide is still under construction, but I'll have it up and running shortly). Let's get right down to business, shall we? Starting the game, you have a small collection of cards from a few packs, as well as a number of tutorial decks (which give you their cards). You might have a cool card that you want to make a deck around, but ultimately, you're probably feeling like having a decent deck is a long ways off.

This can cause PvP anxiety, and a general desire to cry on the inside. However, don't fret! Getting the cards together for a good deck isn't actually that far off.

We'll talk about spending your money in just a minute. But you've gotta have some money to spend in the first place, so let's examine the ways you can make some cash, in order of my recommendation:Ways to Make GoldQuestsFirst and foremost, the obvious: be sure to do all the quests that are given to you on a daily basis. These are worth a silver chest (or two, or better), containing 250 gold in addition to a card. Sometimes, you can get lucky and those chests rank up, or sometimes, more difficult quests can give you either a gold chest (roughly 550 gold and a pack), or a diamond chest worth a pack and/or premium card and 2000+ gold!

Sometimes, promotional cards are also offered for completing quests, and those are usually powerful cards that compare with rare/legendaries.If you want to maximize your rewards, you can reroll quests until you get gold chests. However, keep in mind these quests might take more time/commitment; so it's up to you.Free CampaignsThe free campaigns don't necessarily have a large payout in terms of raw cash, but they unlock more puzzles (see below) and give you full decks of cards. Every deck you get is added to your collection in full (including duplicates), making it well worthwhile to complete these basic campaigns so you have a stock of cards to work with.PuzzlesOnce you've cleared out a few of the campaigns, you'll get access to puzzles. These are great ways to both familiarize yourself with various mechanics and their interactions, and to make some extra cash. Puzzles can give rewards up to 100g each for completion, which is a great way to get some money when you're just starting out.GauntletGauntlet is a great way to make money - to a point.

You have to have a decently put together deck in order to beat all 7 ranks to really make the effort worth it. If you end up stalling out and losing due to a bad draw within the first 3-4 games, you've spent probably a good half hour just to get a few wooden chests (worth about 20g) and a single red chest (worth maybe 50 and a common). If you manage to beat the Gauntlet, you get about 1500g and a pack of cards until you reach Master for the season; after reaching master rank, you will get 3 silver chests.UPDATE: Seasons haven't reset in a while now; plan on getting up to Master and staying there for a while until it's updated!PvP is, theoretically, a money-making option.

But unless you really know what you're doing, I can't recommend it as a means of making gold. You'll get a red chest (50g) per win, with every third casual win granting two red chests, and every third ranked win granting a silver chest. If you have a good deck and win somewhat consistently, it's a good source of gold.But at the start, what you're trying to do is farm these other things to get up to 2500g. Because your main money-maker, the thing that's going to be a factory for cards and shiftstone, is Forge. Forge is your main money-maker for one key reason: Completing a forge (by beating all 7 enemies) will yield 4 packs of cards, and until you hit master rank, 2000g.

Yes, that's right. It almost pays for itself, gives you 4 packs, AND you get to keep all the cards that you've drafted.

Even once you've hit Master level, you still earn three golden chests (worth 550-ish gold each) that can rank up to diamond, worth 2k (in which case, you've more than paid for the entry!). Quite simply, Forge is a new player's best friend to start grabbing cards, packs, and shiftstone en masse.But the catch, of course, is that you've got to complete the Forge to get the reward. Here's the good news: Once you get the hang of it, it really isn't that hard to finish a Forge succesfully. The computer decks aren't huge threats, and are nerfed to reflect that fact that you're drafting from random cards. It also takes two losses to end your forge run, so there's breathing room for a bad draw (or an AI's perfect draw).

And usually, you can manage to pull a lot of the same cards, meaning you can theoretically draft and win with a similar deck or two over and over again, and use your stockpile of extras to cash in for shiftstone to make cards you want for a PvP deck.Here's the bad news: If you're new Eternal and don't know what's out there, or new to trading card games as a whole, Forge can be a challenge. That, and there's always the chance you get completely screwed on a draw twice (unlikely, but it can happen). Finally, you might simply not pull cards that work well together. Reardless, failure can mean walking away without much to show for your hard-earned gold, but you'll still usually get a few good chests and your drafted cards for your troubles. The other good news is that 2500g isn't actually that much in the long run, either.That said, I want you to succeed, so I'm going to do my best to tell you important considerations to keep in mind for drafting. If you're confident or familiar with deckbuiling principles from other games like Magic the Gathering, you can skip this, but I'd still recommend at least skimming.1) There's an important heirarchy to consider when drafting cards. Removal (kill/damage spells, relic weapons, as well as creatures with deadly) are priority one.

If you can get rid of their board, they can't hurt you effectively. I'd say next most important for Eternal are bombs (large threats, usually 5/5+ or cards that can keep growing); you can easily control or stall the board if you've got something big enough to make the AI reluctant to attack.

Next is evasion (namely, things like flyers or that grant flying or unblockable). Hitting the other guy, obviously, is how you're going to win the game, so having more ways to do that is important.2) Try to have a majority of creatures in your deck, if possible. Your weapons, buffs, etc. Super magical chest png. Need targets.3) Draft cards that will make a strong deck, not cards you want for your other decks. The benefits you get for drafting a good deck and playing it well far outweigh taking an uncommon or rare you were looking for. The only exception to this I'd make is if you happen to pull a legendary!4) You're going to end up with two colors in your deck. Multicolor cards (which are usually powerful for their cost due to the influence requirements) won't appear until you've selected your second color, so if you know what you're going for, grab those colors early.

Try to select cards, if possible, that have few infuence requirements (the symbols at the top of the card) so you can make sure that you can play everything you draw. You don't want to have a hand of cards that you can't play because you're waiting to draw that third sigil of a color. 1 influence is preferred for lower power costs, 2 is usually okay (especially if they're 4+ mana cost), but 3+ sigils can be a significant risk.5) While it's good to draft cards that work together (IE, a warcry-themed deck for Fire/Justice, or a lifegain Shadow/Time), don't try to base your whole deck around a single combination of cards, or even around a powerful card you may pull early. Doing an all-in with a card or combo not only runs the risk of you not drawing the required card(s), but it also runs the risk of the combo getting silenced or killed off.6) There's a few color combinations that I've found are easier than others to win with more consistency.

Here are my top archetypes that I'd recommend:-Shadow/Justice is my favorite, since it offers cards that can keep growing more powerful, has plenty of options for removal, and quite a few ways to gain life, draw cards, silence creatures, etc. (which are extremely powerful tools in Forge, especially). Valkyrie decks in these colors are usually easy to make, since they're so plentiful and pair well together.-Time/Shadow is also powerful, and usually has great lifegain. Time offers more options for fixing your power base (IE, pulling the sigils you want/need), and has quite a few bombs, flyers, and deadly creatures.-Justice/Fire is a bit more risky, but can be a powerful combination. Basically, you'll want to focus on creatures with warcry, weapons, and removal spells. These are hyper-aggressive decks, and can win fast, but it can be easy to fizzle out and lose if the enemy lands removal/bombs that can deal with your buffed creatures or survive your removal.-Shadow/Primal decks come in two flavors.

The first is control; this combination excels at dealing with threats and keeping a full hand, and you'll usually dominate the air. You might have trouble with early aggression, though. If you're going for an infiltrate aggro deck instead of a control deck, make sure to draft the means to slip past a big blocker. To get those extra effects.7) If you're still not feeling confident, play some gauntlet.

Get a good feel of what cards and effects work well together, and what kinds of decks that you'll be up against. The decks you'll be facing in Forge will be weaker versions of the ones you'll see in Gauntlet, and there's no boss round at the end.Of course, every Forge is different, so use your discretion! If you really still want help, I'd recommend asking someone with experience to help walk you through your drafting (if available). Eventually, you're probably going to get tired of doing Gauntlets and Forges, and you're going to want to venture from the nest and begin spending your coin on other things, and you're going to want to start forging cards for a deck all your own using all that shiftstone you've gathered up. After all, the end goal here is to have a decent enough deck that you can take with you to PvP. It can be tempting to simply start buying packs or forging the cards you want, but I would actually argue that buying packs is about the least efficient way to spend your money, and you might not want to forge all those cards you want recklessly.

Here's a few important tips that might help you get what you need:1) The campaigns that you can purchase with gold are expensive. There's no getting around that, and it can be daunting to save up to buy them (without spending a little cash on gems). However, they also provide access to FULL SETS of powerful cards, including legendaries. You can view the cards you'll earn over their course before you buy them, too, so pick the campaign that has the cards you're really wanting for your deck.

Plus, they're honestly a lot of fun, and can give you some practice in deckbuilding.2) Theme decks in the store are actually a great deal at 2500g each because they give you several guaranteed rares (IE, you're not buying packs and rolling the dice). If you're looking to build a deck around a particular theme or in particular colors, look at the rares and uncommons offered in each and purchase accordingly.

You can save a lot in shiftstone doing this, and sometimes get alternates that work as good temporary replacements for your deck. In addition to this, you can usually get back some shiftstone from cards you already own! These decks can also hold their own, too, and will be decent for testing the proverbial waters of PvP matches.3) Unless it's a card you really want a premium of, or it's a card you really want/need, disenchant any premiums you open in packs. They're worth a lot of extra shiftstone, which can help you get to the cards that you need faster.4) Avoid crafting rares and legendaries as part of an experimental deck you just wanted to 'try out.' Stick with legendaries that compliment decks you've already had some success with, or that could be useful in a number of decks.5) The monthly leagues are actually really good bang for your buck.

In addition to a fancy new card back, you'll get about 14+ packs for the price of.12? It was originally 10k, this last one was 12.5k, so I'm not sure where it's headed price-wise. Regardless, you get some extra packs over and above what you're paying for.6) Similarly, many of the events will give you rewards simply for participating, and they're usually good for packs at a discounted rate.

Don't hesitate to join in! Even if you don't do well, you'll get something for your troubles.7) Drafts are about 5k each.

Zombi multiplayer. If you're good at drafting and you can pull off all 7 wins, it's good for 3 diamond chests, meaning you more than get your money back. However, drafts are extremely challenging, and if you don't know what you're doing, you're liable to lose a lot of gold for very little reward. Still, if you want to give it a shot, many of the tips I gave for Forge are applicable; however, you will not be limited to two colors, and you also have to pay extra close attention to each pack, and what's being drafted from each (other players will be drafting from the same packs you are)! This section is, hopefully, going to help you figure out some of the nuances of the game that aren't necessarily obvious. Some key mechanics and principles aren't really told to you during the tutorial, which I feel is kind of silly, but I suppose it's hard to teach you everything about a complex rulebook in a short time. Some of these are 'discovered' through doing the puzzles or through play, and I'm going to list a few things that might appear on the tips screen (because they're important and you might not have seen it) but this is helpful information if you're starting out. I know this is on the tips screen once in a blue moon, but keep in mind that equipping relic weapons allows your spells that you've cast to use that relic weapon's properties.

IE, if your weapon has Overwhelm, any spells you cast will also have Overwhelm. Also on the tips screen, but worth noting, is that if you have an aegis, multiple effects that trigger at once (such as killing two ticking grenadin) are all blocked with one Aegis. While we're on the topic of Aegis, keep in mind that it only protects you from enemy spells! If you play lightning storm or harsh rule, your own Aegis creatures are liable to get toasted. It's worth noting that cards do not change 'states' when put into the graveyard.

IE, if a creature was buffed up to a 10/10 when it went into the graveyard, it will come out the same way. Any weapons and their stats are lost, however. Similarly, creatures that you play apply their effects any time they deal damage to something else. For example, stormcaller can be exhausted to deal 1 damage. If you give her a dagger with deadly, that one damage she deals per turn will kill any unit you target.

You can also trigger infiltrate by having your creature deal damage due to an effect!. Any time you create a copy of a card in your hand, fetch a card in your deck, or return a card from your void to your hand, you are considered to have 'drawn' that card.

Keep this in mind for effects that trigger off of drawing cards. This is particularly potent for creatures with Echo!. Putting a card into its owner's hand removes all attachments from that card. This is useful for both getting rid of curses and enemy weapons. If you block an enemy unit, it's still considered blocked even if you return the blocker to your hand or sacrifice it. However, if the attacker has overwhelm, all the damage will still go through.

Don't underestimate the power of silence. Some of the most powerful cards in the game become useless or sub-par without their text effects, and you can also remove curses on your own units, if you're willing to silence them. If you gain armor while wielding a relic weapon, or if you have armor before wielding a relic weapon, it gets rolled into that weapon's health stat. This can be a way to make a favorite weapon last a long time, but beware of spells that kill your weapon outright!Got more suggestions for things to add?

List them below! Now that you have some tips on mechanics, as well as some of the best ways to get some gold and shiftstone, it's time to start spending it to assemble a deck of your choosing! For those of you who are new to card games like Eternal, I'm going to list a few different types of deck archetypes first; these are essentially different forms that a deck will usually follow. Afterwards, I'm going to start by giving some general tips on building an effective deck.Deck Archetypes. Aggro decks want to try to kill the enemy as quickly as possible. They excel at finding ways to deal as much damage as possible through spells, small creatures, and do their best to keep the board clear early game so they can deal maximum damage. Tempo decks focus on the idea of getting as much value as possible out of each card they play.

Eternal

Usually, this includes cards with multiple effects; silence and draw a card, or cards that do things when they're summoned. The general idea is that if you can get 2-for-1 out of each card you play, eventually you'll have an insurmountable lead.

But sometimes, it's simply a matter of finding the best card for the power cost. They usually excel in the mid-game.

Control decks usually focus on calmly reacting to whatever the enemy player does, and usually win throuh either slowly chipping away at the other player's life total with some kind of effect, or playing a particularly large and deadly creature once it's safe. They use lots of kill and silence spells to keep the enemy in check, as well as spells that both draw cards and make the enemy discard them. Combo decks use a specific combination of cards in order to win the game. Whether this is two specific cards or a small range of cards, combo decks will often try to stall until they can get their combo off; and usually, once it has, it either means they've already won, or they may simply have an insurmountable board that's next to impossible to deal with. They can be either immensely satisfying or frustrating to play with/against. Ramp decks try to accelerate their power curve through creatures and spells in order to play powerful, high-value cards ASAP. While these decks are vulnerable to early pressure, they're usually extremely hard to stop once they've hit their stride.Deck Building Tips.

First and foremost, consistency is key to making your deck function. It's best to include all 4 copies of an imporant card for your deck, or craft a few more copies of an ideal card, rather than including a bunch of one-offs that just fill the space. If you're building a multi-faction deck, be sure to include some cards that will draw specific sigils (like Seek Power), or grant specific colors of influence. Usually some of the dual-faction power cards will be enough for a two-color deck, but Seek Power, the 2-cost Influence strangers, and some of the cards found in the Time faction are great ways to ensure that you get all the influence you need to play your cards. Keep your deck to 75 cards if possible. It's not the end of the world to go over, but your deck will typically perform less consistently the more cards you have in it.

This may mean making a few painful cuts of cards you want in your deck, or dropping down to 3 copies of less-important cards. On that same note, enable advanced deckbuilding in the options menu. By default, the game adds power sigils automatically based on the cards in your deck.

While this isn't a bad thing, sometimes it can add more than your deck needs, and it also won't use some of the power cards that are optimal for your deck (such as waystones, diplomatic seals, or banners, if you have them). Sometimes, simple is best. When you're starting out, try to have your deck focus on one specific goal or theme (IE, I want to warcry into something huge, or I want to win using X card). Pay attention to how much power the various cards in your deck cost (see the chart shown on the deck builder!). While the minimum you can have is 1/3 of your deck, if you're running a bunch of high-cost cards, you may need extra power in order to ensure you curve smoothly into the cards you're trying to play. Trust me, having enough power (and influence) can make all the difference.

On that same note, think about what your goal is and compare it to the relative cost of cards in your deck. If you're trying to play aggro but most of your cards are 3-4 mana, you're probably not going to do well.

If you're playing tempo or control, you should probably have a fairly even amount of cards at all ranges of mana. If you're ramping into big creatures, you should have mostly high-cost cards, etc.And that's about all I can think of for now! Got some other tips you'd like to share, or think I missed something? Let me know in the comments! This section has been a long-time coming, so sorry for the delay! There's a lot to cover here, so let's go ahead and jump right in.There's a lot of different possibilities for decks in Eternal; I love to tinker and make new combinations, and there's enough cards that you can definitely make that happen. You're going to run into a lot of different decks, a lot of them with unexpected twists.

However, knowing what the most common types of decks are can both help you to know what you're dealing with, or help you build your deck yourself.I'm going to list some of the more powerful and common archetypes here. Once this section is done, I'm going to also recommend a few decks to start; there are some decks that are pretty easy/cheap to build that can help you get your PvP career going. Feln (Primal/Shadow) Infiltrate decks are nasty. Expect a lot of spells that give creatures unblockable/flying, lots of low-mana kill spells, and a lot of aggression. The best way to deal with an infiltrate deck is to use effects that silence or kill when possible, and be sure you have a flyer or two. While your creatures might buy you a few turns of peace, it's always best to assume they'll find a way to slip around eventually.

These decks usually don't have many significant threats by late game. Feln (Primal/Shadow) Control decks basically just clear your board of anything that lands, permafrost any major threats, and try to keep drawing cards to deal with whatever else you might play.

The best strategy is to try to bait out removal before playing your true threats, or to play cards with Aegis to help prevent kill spells. Also, don't play all your creatures at once, since they'll have spells that can clear the board. Knowing the most common kill spells and including units that can dodge or withstand them will be key. Warcry decks are usually Fire/Justice, and rely on heavy early aggression, low-damage removal, and playing weapons on units early to create a high threat that's difficult to stop.

High HP units and/or low-cost removal will help you survive the onslaught. While you can stall a warcry deck out by having a superior board (such as large Time faction cards), keep in mind there's a few highly powerful late-game legendaries that can swing the tide back in their favor. Xenan (Time/Shadow) decks often are all about life gain. They play a bunch of creatures that have life-granting effects, and creatures that grow or gain additional benefits every time that player gains life.

Silence is your friend here, as well as removal that can kill the creatures before the get out of gand. Yeti (Fire/Primal) decks are a different kind of aggro.

Rather than relying on raw strength like most Warcry decks, Yeti decks often poke their enemies to death by throwing down a boatload of creatures that all gain benefits from other yeti being on the board, deal damage when summoned, or the like. They usually only have a few cards as their primary win mechanics, but if you can't deal with them, they will find a way to slowly poke you to death. Beware of Wump and Slushdumper.

Minotaur (Shadow/Justice) decks are incredibly strong, and rely on high aggression. They often are high-HP units that get equipped with high-damage weapons, and their colors also grant them access to powerful removal and silence cards.

The best way I've found to deal with them is to bring plenty of removal yourself, and to bring flyers to get in damage. Pay close attention to the effects of each individual creature, and prioritize threats accordingly; don't be fast to use your removal. Also, don't let that 5/7 endurance that fetches/buffs cards live.

Valkyrie (Shadow/Justice) decks are aggro that, again, have powerful removal access. Like the Yeti, they tend to buff each other up through Ally effects, but most of the Valkyrie fly.

The best way to deal with Valkyrie decks is silence effects and keeping the board as clear as possible. Again, prioritize threats, and conserve your removal and silence cards for things you absolutely can't deal with. Hooru (Primal/Justice) decks rely on stacking battle skills and card growth. Often times, these decks will have a healthy mix of lifesteal, flying, quickdraw, and aegis. Board wipes and large creatures will be your friends here; letting a creature grow for too long can be fatal.

Sentinel (Fire/Time) decks play explorers in the early game, as well as relics, and ramp as quickly as possible into large, powerful Sentinel creatures. A lot of power is found in their relics; so if you can get rid of those, it can hinder them greatly (Mysterium Orb is a prime target). Once they hit 7+ power, they're going to be dropping huge threats almost every turn, so try to push for early damage and keep their explorers cleared off the board if they're trying to ramp using creatures. Stranger decks use all 5 factions. If you've ever played against Slivers in MtG, it's basically that. If you're not familiar, each stranger usually gives every stranger on the board a buff (IE, all strangers get flying, or all strangers get +1/+1). Stranger decks are all about prioritizing targets.

The largest threats and buffs to the board need to go (or be silenced) first. There's a stranger that both gets +1/+1 for every stranger on the board, and creates a new random stranger each turn. That's usually the #1 thing to save removal for.

Dinosaur (Time/Primal) decks are pretty much what they sound like. They're mid-range decks that play dinosaurs, especially ones with Killer or just good stats for their cost. Try to keep the skies clear, and stall with removal and deadly creatures. Combat tricks (like Finest Hour) can also be useful to keep your cards safe.

Removal/stall is a great way to keep these decks in check. Finally, (Time/Primal, forgot the name) decks are usually centered around using draw and echo cards to continually clone and redraw creatures; usually clockroach. Again, killing relics (like Crown of Possibilities) is a great way to hinder them. There's a few decks that I would recommend as easy starters; this is mostly because they don't need much shiftstone, and you can still create a potent combination! I'm not going to give an exact decklist (you can look up decks online if you want good examples, try Eternalwarcry), but the following is a list of decks that are potent, and you don't need that many rares/legendaries for it to be powerful.1) Grenadin decks. Usually Fire/Shadow, they flood the field with tiny 1/1 grenadin that can be sacrificed to deal damage, kill enemy units, and many of them gain extra effects as their fellow grenadin die.

Look for cards that sacrifice from the Shadow faction, and cards with Entomb. Alternately, use cards that buff your whole board, as well as removal spells, for sudden bursts of damage to try to rush the enemy down.2) Lifegain decks. Lots of lifegain cards are common or uncommon, as are many of the cards that grow when you gain life.

If you can get the rare that buffs the whole board each time you gain life, do so. That's a powerful wincon.3) Valkyrie decks. It might not be the perfect/ideal deck, but you can do a lot with the Valkyrie that you start the game off with from the campaigns. And since many of them are common anyway, and lots of rares from shadow/justice are Valkyrie-specific, you probably have more of this than you think. Make sure to include removal.Got more? I'd love to hear it, feel free to post ideas and deck lists that have worked for you below!

Thanks so much for reading my guide! I hope you found it helpful.

If you have questions, comments, or additional topics you'd like me to cover, please leave me a comment! This guide isn't finished yet, obviously, but I hope to make this a great resource for new players.If you're a new player and would like to have a referral link for some free packs, you're welcome to use mine! You'll get them once the non-paid campaigns are finished. For whatever reason, Steam doesn't like the formatting of the link, so I added a space in the middle. You'll have to remove it for the referral to work properly.?ref=5c10ce48-55a2-4b38-ab77-6661ec46d27dDo this before the tutorials, or you'll have to do those over again!Best of luck out there! Again, hope this guide was helpful.

Hope to see you in game.